2008 Chambertin
By Domaine Dujac
2008 Chambertin from Domaine Dujac, Burgundy, France
Burgundy connoisseurs well remember the year 2008, which was not bereft of vineyard trials. A cool, wet spring followed by a summer beset with storms put vintners to a stern test. As autumn unfolded, it was patience that reaped rewards. Those who awaited the climatic clemency in September were greeted by ideal conditions that led to a late harvest of remarkably fine quality grapes. It is within this context that the 2008 Chambertin from Domaine Dujac distinguishes itself as an exemplar of overcoming the vicissitudes of nature.
Provenance and Prestige: A Worthy Endeavour
Domaine Dujac's enigmatic ability to harness the mercurial climate has bestowed upon the 2008 vintage an intricately balanced composition. The wine is steeped in the rich, illustrious heritage of Gevrey-Chambertin terroir, which shines through in its delicate interweaving of tenacity and elegance. Jeremy Seysses, at the helm of Domaine Dujac's winemaking, ensured that their renowned practice of minimal intervention married finely with astute insight to produce such a commendable outcome.
An Autumnal Harvest with a Silver Lining
Critical affinities are afforded to years that require rigorous discernment in wine making decisions—and so 2008 stands as a testament to vinicultural deftness. The 2008 Chambertin evokes autumnal warmth amidst its structured complexity. Notes of ripe red berries and subtle game merge with whispers of earth and delicate spice, gently unfolding over an enduring palate with tasteful finesse—an articulation found only in wines born from challenge and triumph.
The potential for longevity in this particular vintage boosts its allure as an investment-worthy selection. The auspicious symmetry between acidity and tannin suggests a steady zenith is yet to come, promising further enhancement over time.
In summary, the 2008 Chambertin from Domaine Dujac stands as a remarkable testament not only to the enduring grace of its terroir under duress but also to the sagacious artisanship applied throughout its vinification. It is a vintage that offers profound evidence for why Burgundy remains one of the most illustrious and investable wine regions in the world.
Current market price
$52,580.00
12x75cl
Highest score
95
POP score
2100
Scores and tasting notes
Cassis, sage, and licorice dominate the nose and palate of Dujac’s 2008 Chambertin (as usual, 80% from the Clos de Beze), which unites tactile intensity with lift to an uncanny degree. Bloody raw meat, crushed stone, mineral salts, and peat add profound and genuinely mysterious complexity that grows as the wine takes on air. This firm, finely-grained beauty should prove worth following for the better part of two decades, and I would be inclined to keep corkscrew off of it for at least 6-8. The Dujac 2008s were not racked until last December, and bottling took place January through March. “The malic acid numbers were high-ish, but not significantly higher than in, say, 2006 or 2001,” says Jeremy Seysses in an effort to explain what he admitted were “for us, excessively late malos. I have a feeling it was a lack of nutrients that were wash out,” he continues, since, after all, “it rained a lot in 2008” with, he adds, “poor fruit set proving to be the vintage’s saving grace. I think we would actually have had less to harvest (i.e. worth keeping) if we had had a better fruit set. There was rot, but can you find it in any of the wines? That’s a credit to how far Burgundy has come along in terms of sorting” (which Dujac does exclusively in the vineyard, not on sorting tables – the name of their U.S. importer ironically notwithstanding). “I didn’t love my lack of options in 2007,” says Seysses of the preceding season, “so we picked early – earlier even than in 2003.” In vinification “we decided not to force too much, and just to keep it charming,” which is exactly how I thought the wines turned out. “At Domaine Dujac, we’re never been that attached to deep color, so we’re quite tolerant (in that regard), and the least thing we wanted to do was make hard wines. I de-stemmed more (than usual, or than in 2008). The fruit felt fragile, so in barrel I kept the wines under a bit more free sulfur than usual, which reinforced their lightness.” Seysses opines that 2007 was not a year in which old selections displayed their overall superiority to clones, because “if yo(‘re Pinots) were riper earlier, you were ripe while it was raining,” whereas in 2008 you could scarcely get too much ripeness. Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (415) 491-4724
David Schildknecht - The Wine Advocate, 28 June 2010