2012 Bonnes Mares
By Domaine Jacques-Frederic Mugnier
2012 Bonnes Mares from Domaine Jacques-Frederic Mugnier, Burgundy, France
Like a whispered legend that captivates the senses, the 2012 Bonnes Mares from Domaine Jacques-Frederic Mugnier is a testament to the artistry of Burgundian winemaking. This particular vintage encapsulates the indefinable magic of the Côte de Nuits—a rare jewel in the crown of fine wine connoisseurs.
Craftsmanship and Climate: The 2012 Vintage Dance
Notwithstanding the climactic challenges that beset Burgundy in 2012, this vintage emerged with poise and dignity. The early adversity—in the form of hail and frost—ultimately concentrated the berries' efforts, leading to limited yields but exceptional quality. A contrast to more opulent years, Domaine Jacques-Frederic Mugnier sculpted a vintage defined by intricacy and finesse.
The 2012 Bonnes Mares reveals layers upon layers—each sip unearths new facets while retaining a harmonious balance. The deep garnet hue is mirrored by a complexity on the nose; wild cherry and damp earth intertwine with subtle threads of spice and florality that are often hallmarks of Bonnes Mares. On the palate, it is a glorious anthology of structured tannins woven seamlessly with a vivacious acidity, while the dark fruit core has mellowed subtly into an elegy of maturity.
A Vintage Worthy of Patience
The éclat of this wine’s youth has matured into an exquisite crescendo, making it ripe for investment. For collectors who understand that patience begets reward, the poetic expression found in Domaine Jacques-Frederic Mugnier’s craftsmanship in this challenging vintage presents an unrivalled opportunity. With time's passage, this wine continues to articulate its provenance with increased eloquence.
In Summary
With the quiet confidence emblematic of its storied terroir, the 2012 Bonnes Mares from Domaine Jacques-Frederic Mugnier speaks in hushed tones that command attention. Its graceful evolution reaffirms both its stature within Burgundy’s pantheon and its standing as one of the paramount investments for those enamoured with the alchemy of time and taste.
Current market price
$20,640.00
12x75cl
Highest score
92
POP score
1030
Scores and tasting notes
The 2012 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has an expressive bouquet of joyous red currant and pomegranate scents that join in the chorus line of raspberry and wild strawberry, all underpinned by the Bonnes-Mares joie-de-vivre. The palate is medium-bodied, linear, focused with very fresh acidity and a structured, intense finish that bears semblance to many top 2010s. It is three years since I last visited Frederic Mugnier at his impressive ivy-clad maison in Chambolle that seems to rule the roost in the clustered village. This is a producer whose wines, I must confess, I was indifferent to when I began tasting Burgundy wine. For sure, there were plenty of plaudits. However, with the odd exception, I could not engage with the wines and was not overly keen on how they evolved in bottle. As the years have rolled by, I have appreciated the wines more and more. Has my palate changed? I do not think so. Rather, Frederic has fine-tuned and adapted his approach and I sense he feels more comfortable and confident in his practices. We had a frank interchange about new oak. Nowadays he has reduced the percentage to about 15%, even for the Musigny Grand Cru. Could he envisage not using new oak at all in the future? Frederic said it could be possible and he seemed wary of unclean elements that may lurk inside new barrels and affect the purity of wines. As such, the more classical, refined style of Pinot Noir suits Mugnier to the ground. I adored the subtlety, freshness and precision of these nascent 2012s that at their peak constitute some of the finest wines of the vintage. The following wines were all tasted from used barrels in September 2013. Importer: Becky Wasserman Selection (Le Serbet) and through various US importers (see www.leserbet.com for full list.)
Neal Martin - The Wine Advocate, 29 December 2013